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John Lobb is among the most renowned manufacturers in Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a shoemaking capital in the seventeenth century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the traditional production process developed in the 19th century.Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For example, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife touching the cutting table. With traditional knives, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is limited, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from young French calf hides. Only about sixty percent is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The collection combines timeless classics with contemporary tweaks. The classic City II model, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen shoes gained elongated straps and a reinforced sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in the mid-20th century, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah trainers, which are produced yearly in various colors and materials.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb stands as a defining name in the British footwear industry.
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